Tuesday, August 12, 2008

New free route on the Minaret


The rope drag was pulling me down as I was starting to sketch out in this flaring chimney, my foot gently leaning on a big loose block. I could hear Nico shouting something. What's he going on about? Time to put in some protection...I looked at my harness: not much left, I must have done almost 60m... I put in a terrible looking green alien and try to pull up slack to clip it... I just need 10 more cm... Nico's shouting is as clear as blue sky now: "End of the rope!!!". Oh shit, trouble... I need to down climb to a lower ledge... "ROCK!!!" I yell from the top of my lungs as the loose block throws itself into the void and I start sliding down the chimney... I barely manage to stop myself as I see the chunk of granite ricocheting off the wall straight towards Nico... "ROCK! ROCK!" Miraculously it missed him by mm's....
Flaring cracks, fiddly gear, offwidth, hollow sounding granite stalactites, splitter hands: the ingredients  to the free route (probably new) we climbed on the Minaret. An all free variation of "Doubting the Milenium"... There are still a lot of files on our desk at the office.... 



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